A fairly regular tenant of the second division in Germany, that's who. Think Barnsley or Watford or Cardiff and you'll be about right.

There have been two flirtations above - a three season stint in the top flight in the late 1960s, and a single year in the naughties - and a spell below in the regional leagues in the nineties. But normal service has resumed in the second tier, usually batting in the top half of the table.

There have been highlights. They were runners-up in the league to mighty Bayern for one memorable season in the 1960s. They've made the German Cup Final three times most recently in 2004 when they lost in the final to Werder Bremen - and as their opponents were already Champions, the UEFA spot went to Aachen and they reached the round of 16.

With a new stadium, financial security and regular gates of 20,000 the future looks bright for the men in yellow and black.

Where do you come from? Stadion Tivoli


The Tivoli is on the edge of town by a retail park - and just a long goal kick from the former stadium, also called Tivoli. The old ground was still there on my visit - i never had the pleasure to see a game there but it looks charming if basic from the outside.

The 'New' Tivoli holds 32,000 and on arrival has an impressive facade - with the letters TIVOLI  bearing down on visitors in a slightly old Soviet fashion.

Inside it's one tier all the way round with seats curving round all four corners. Dominating affairs is the home terrace, a steep bank of steps to the right of the main stand and it was pretty packed, and noisy, on my Friday night experience.

As you look at the ground from the main road, it's the Ost side stand directly in front of you, with the south end stand (standing) to your left and the the visitors to the far right.

Inside, the main concourse encircles the ground and you're free to walk around much of it, meaning you enjoy the same facilities whether you have a cheap spot on the terrace or a seat along the side. There does however appear to be more hospitality and posher bars for the pricey seats near the halfway line.

We're on our way: Getting to the ground


It's a long stroll from the city to the Tivoli, up to a couple of miles I'd say, so the bus is the best option.

Bus 51 from the bus station (five minutes east of the centre) takes you there as well as the special C Shuttle which operates on matchdays. It's free with matchday tickets and the buses go from the far end of the station in the middle platforms. After the game the buses are lined up outside the Ost stand - hop on the first one, either C Shuttle or 51, and you're back in town in ten minutes.

The bus station is about a 20 minute walk from the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Either hop on any buses going there (they'll be heading right from outside the station). Alternatively from the station cross the road, walk ahead and to the right down Bahnhofstrasse, then left into Theatrestrasse main road. At the end, turn right into Peterstrasse and follow that for 600 yards, the bus station is on your left.

If you're already in Aachen old town head back down the hill to Peterstrasse and then turn left up Peterstrasse - it's up there around 400 yards.

Who ate all the pies? Eating and drinking


Food and drink outlets are built into the outside of the stadium so you can watch the pre-match build up from the street.

Inside it's the usual fayre with a healthy number of kiosks offering a good number of unhealthy options. Note you'll need a Tivoli Karte to buy food and drink inside (not outside), you can buy one of these from the dedicated Karten kiosks which you'll find close to the food spots inside the stadium.

There appear to be a smattering of bars along Krefelderstrasse, the long road out to the ground, so it may be worth hopping on and off the 51 Bus if you see anything you fancy.

Other than that there's little in the immediate vicinity of the stadium so you're better off popping into the old town.

Options there too are a little limited, with bars and restaurants more geared to the tourist trade and at times, the tourist wallet.

However, there's one or two places to try. Head to the market square by Rathaus. As you look at the grand town hall, head to its left and 20 yards down you'll find Kings College, a German bar with sports and a good line in cheap and cheerful food. And Guinness.

Next door is Rethels Bar, a cosy (ie small) irish bar with a lively atmosphere on a Friday night but no TV sport. The other irish bar in the middle of town is also just off the main market square. For this, head again look at the town hall, head immediately left down Grosskolnstrasse and then first left down the hill of Mostardstrasse. At the end you'll find the Guinness bar, although again, no TV sport to speak of.

Bag a seat: Buying a ticket


Holding 32,000, it's rare for the Tivoli to be full and there's usually up to 10,000 places free so there should be little problem buying on the day. However, if you want to be safe the website is relatively easy to navigate and you can buy online, picking up on the day,

Alternatively buy one at the ground. There are ticket offices on each corner. Or head to the club store in the middle of town, found in Pontstrasse - one of the roads leading down the hill from the market square by the Rathaus. It's open Monday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm.
 

Grab a souvenir: Stores

There's a store at the ground although it seemed to be confusingly closed to the public on matchdays as it's the hospitality entrance. I couldn't figure it out anyway. However, there are fairly well stocked kiosks dotted around the concourse which can furnish you with anything you like in the bright yellow and black livery of Aachen - hence I'm now the proud owner of a reversable AA hat as it was -2C when I went.

There's also a club store in town as mentioned earlier, in Pontstrasse off the market square by the town hall. Other than that head online.