Who are yer?

Alemannia Aachen, the first football team you'll reach on the train into western Germany.

And these days they are as regular a fixture in the second flight as Barnsley, Reading and Watford are in England. Apart from one brief sojourn to the top division in 2006, they have spent most of the past two decades competing with the likes of St Pauli and Greuther Furth in the second tier of German football.

 

Or that was the case until 2012, when a disastrous season saw Aachen tumble into the third tier of German football. Too big for that level, but there are a few other big boys down there with them.

 

That's not to say there haven't been the odd glories. They have made it to three German Cup Finals, losing all three but most recently in 2004 this was enough to qualify for the UEFA Cup, where they enjoyed a commendable run to the last 16.

 

 

 

Just in case you didn't know the name: Stadion Tivoli.

 

The club's most successful period came in the late 1960s when, in one memorable season, they finished second in the Bundesliga to Bayern Munich. But success was fleeting, and they were bottom the next season and did topple into the third tier before pulling back to the second division in the 1990s.

Where do you come from? Stadion Tivoli

The Tivoli is on the edge of town by a retail park – and just a long goal kick from the former stadium, also called Tivoli. The old ground was still there on my first visit, but largely demolished by my return in late 2011 – i never had the pleasure to see a game there but it looks charming if basic from the outside.

The 'New' Tivoli holds more than 32,000 and on arrival has an impressive facade – with the letters TIVOLI  bearing down on visitors in a slightly old Soviet fashion..

Inside it's one tier all the way round with seats curving round all four corners. Dominating affairs is the home terrace, a steep bank of steps to the right of the main stand and it was pretty packed, and noisy, on my Friday night and Sunday afternoon experiences.

 

 

 

As you look at the ground from the main road, it's the Ost stand directly in front of you, with the south stand (standing) to your left and the the visitors to the far right.

Inside the main concourse encircles the ground (apart from the main stand and visitors corner) and you're free to walk around much of it, meaning you enjoy the same facilities whether you have a cheap spot on the terrace or a seat along the side. There does however appear to be more hospitality and posher bars for the pricey seats near the halfway line.

 

 

Away day: The visiting fans coming to the west of western Germany.

 

 

We're on our way: Getting to the ground

It's a long stroll from the city to the Tivoli, up to a couple of miles I'd say, and although a few hardy locals do the stroll the bus is the best option.

Bus 51 from the bus station (five minutes east of the centre) takes you there as well as the special C Shuttle which operates on matchdays. It's free with matchday tickets. After the game the buses are lined up outside the Ost stand – hop on the first one, either C Shuttle or 51, and you're back in town in ten minutes.

The bus station is about a 15 minute walk from the Hauptbahnhof (main train station). Either hop on any buses going there (they'll be heading right from outside the station) or simply follow that main road round until you find it.

Who ate all the pies? Eating and drinking

Food and drink outlets are built into the outside of the stadium so you can watch the pre-match build up from the street. Inside it's the usual fare with a healthy number of kiosks offering a good number of unhealthy options. Note you'll need a Tivoli Karte to buy bits inside and the official kiosk outside, you can buy one of these from the dedicated Karten kiosks which you'll find close to the food spots.

 

 

 

 

There appear to be a smattering of bars along Krefelderstrasse, the long road out to the ground, so it may be worth hopping on and off the 51 Bus if you see anything you fancy.

Other than that there's little in the immediate vicinity of the stadium so you're better off popping into the old town.

Options there are fairly limited too, with bars and restaurants more geared to the tourist trade and at times, the tourist wallet.

However, there's one or two places to try. Head to the market square by Rathaus. As you look at the grand town hall, head to its left and 20 yards down you'll find Kings College, a German bar with sports and a good line in cheap and cheerful food. And Guinness.

Next door is Rethels Bar, a cosy (ie small) irish bar with a lively atmosphere on a Friday night but no sport. The other irish bar in the middle of town is also just off the main market square. For this, head again look at the town hall, head immediately left down Grosskolnstrasse and then first left down the hill of Mostardstrasse. At the end you'll find the Guinness bar, although again, no TV sport to speak of.

Bag a seat: Buying a ticket

Holding 32,000, it's rare for the Tivoli to be full and there's usually up to 10,000 places free so there should be little problem buying on the day. However, if you want to be safe the website is relatively easy to navigate and you can buy online, picking up on the day. Visit the website here: https://www.alemannia-tickets.de/

Alternatively buy one at the ground - there are ticket offices on each corner – or head to the club store in the middle of town, found in Pontstrasse – one of the roads leading down from the market square by the Rathaus. It's open Monday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm.

 

 

 

Take your pick: Ticket offices are on every corner.

 

 

 

Grab a souvenir

There's a store at the ground although it seemed to be confusingly closed to the public on matchdays as it's the hospitality entrance.I couldn't figure it out anyway. However, there are fairly well stocked kiosks dotted around the concourse which can furnish you with anything you like int he bright yellow and black livery of Aachen – hence I'm now the proud owner of a reversable AA hat.

There's also a club store in town as mentioned earlier, in Pontstrasse off the market square by the town hall. Other than that head online.