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Barcelona: where to stay, eat and drink

You would need more pages than War and Peace to list all the places to stay, eat and drink in Barcelona. And it would take decades to check out the seemingly endless choices you have.

 

That would be too much information - and info on bars and restaurants dates quickly - so here I concentrate on the parts of town to head to, and give thoughts on those I've been to.

 

 

Where to stay

 

A large concentration of hotels are based in the L'Eixample district - on any map that's the grid of roads spreading out to the north of La Ramblas.

 

In particular you will find many options around Universitat and Catalunya and these are sound places to go. Firstly, the area has excellent links to the airport by bus or train, saving crucial time on transfers. Secondly, it's a five minute walk to the top of La Ramblas and all of the central districts are in easy reach. Thirdly, despite its central location it's just far enough off the main thoroughfare which is busy well into the night.

 


 

There are hotels along La Ramblas which obviously have their attractions. However, prices reflect that and you are likely to pay more for lower quality.

 

If there's a few of you I'd suggest Hotel Condestable in Ronda Universidad, where I've stayed twice.

 

It's a cheap and cheerful star with a small, unimposing reception leading on and up to four floors of rooms in a grand corner plot, many with room for three or four. On the first occasion I shared a room at the front on the road - quiet enough with the window shut - the second time was a larger room towards the back.

 

It's not plush but all rooms are en suite, it's reasonably clean and serves your purpose, a bed for the night. Staff speak english, and are pretty laid back and helpful. From there it's five minutes to the top of La Ramblas, and there's a metro stop (Universitat, L1, L2) directly outside the hotel front door.  Breakfast is extra but there are nearby cafes.

 

However, if there are two of you there it is worth looking around as you may get better places for the same rate.

 

Grupotel Gravina in Gravina is a goal kick away from Hotel Condestable and you may land a double room at this superior three star at a competitive rate. It's a cut above the other three stars I have sampled in Barca. Indeed the reception has a bit more of a four star feel about it and they even throw in a complimentary glass of bubbly when you arrive. I'm easily impressed.

 

There's a bar/ restaurant on the ground floor, a good place to start the evening but note it shuts around 11.30pm. The room I checked out was smart, clean, but small. Again, it's a very short walk through the top of El Raval district to La Ramblas. Breakfast is available so if the price is fair, give it a shout.

 

 

 

Another I checked out handily placed in the Universitat area is Hotel Gran Ronda in Rue De Sant Antoni (closest metros Universitat L1, L2 and San Antoni L2). A small entrance disguises a large number of rooms above. Glass lifts serve six floors, there's internet access on the bottom floor and apparently breakfast below.

 

 

Staff were friendly enough and the room was clean, if on the small side overlooking the back with a view over new style apartments and old flats.

 

 

The other hotel I visited was further out off the beaten track but well placed for La Sagrada Familia, just two stops down on the metro. Hotel Catalonia Albeniz and still only four stops from La Ramblas. It's set back from the road in a quiet, non-touristy part of town - which does look a bit dingy at night but the metro is only a short walk. The hotel has modern, clean and fair sized rooms and a hot/ cold breakfast is often included in your price (around 70 euros when I went).

 

 

The hotel is not easily spotted when you leave the metro. If you do book in, take L1 or L2 to El Clot Arago. Exit by Sortida Venicia, turn left and walk, with the dual carriageway to your left, 200 yards to Rue Arago, the hotel is just down on the right.


For a great selection of places to stay with discount prices visit Barcelona Hotels for more information

 

 

 

Where to eat


 

It will come as no major earth-shattering revelation to say that most quick and easy options for a cheap bite or a full meal is in or around La Ramblas. A number of places line the main road itself but there's even more just off the main drag in the Gothic Quarter or El Raval.

 

Here are a selection I've sampled - there are scores more and let us know one that you would rate on quality, value, or preferably both. All below are at least OK and shouldn't have you rushing for the bog for the following 24 hours.

 

 

 

Breakfast


 

If you're staying in the Universitat area or along Rue de Sant Antoni the Cafes Del Brasil is good value. A busy, bustling local bar frequented by locals in Placa Pes de la Palla close to Sant Antoni metro, grab a coffee, croissant or hot and cold baguettes. Eat inside or out.

 

A good option for breakfast is the cafe on a street corner of La Ramblas near Liceu metro. It's a cheap and pleasant option - orange juice, coffee and croissant for three euros with a great people-watching view of the Ramblas thrown in. It does meals all day, good value but average at best. Compare that price with 10 or 11 euros for the cafes on the main street.

 

 

 

Lunch


 

If you find yourself in Parc Montjuic and want a classy lunch hunt out La Font del Cort restaurant, nestling in the hills just down from the Olympic Stadium. Tables in the courtyard outside are often taken but it's worth asking as you may find a spot indoors.

 

 

It rattles up a fantastic three course lunch which together with a glass of beer came in at 12.95 euros. Main courses include the likes of grilled tuna, meatballs, ravioli and salads. It sounds heavy but it's surprisingly light and a great venueif fairly posh, to chill out for an hour.

 

 

However, if you're in the harbour area a high-class one to consider is La Miranda del museu - based on the top floor of the Museu d'Historia de Catalunya. On first impressions it can appear a bit stuffy, and many tables are reserved, but it's worth asking if there's a space. The a la carte menu is changed daily and the cooking, meat and fish, is of the highest order. The crowning glory is the terrace - step outside for sensational views of the harbour. Expect two courses and drinks to set you back 25 to 30 euros.

 

 

Below more restaurants line the harbourside. Choices are extensive but keep an eye on the prices as it's one of the most expensive parts of town.

 

 

In town, Can Segarra on Rue de Sant Antoni close to Universitat offers baguettes, burgers and other meals with a generous portion coming in at under 10 euros.

 

 

If you have spent the morning at La Sagrada Familia take a stroll up Av Gaudi and on the right you'll find a pizza house with an excellent selection to choose from, worth a pit stop.

 

 

Dinner


If you do one decent, authentic, top class meal then one place to head to is Los Caracoles, 50 yards off La Ramblas in the Gothic Quarter. For those who don't know their spanish (that's most of us) caracoles means snails, the speciality, but if that's not for you there are plenty of other amazing dishes to try.

 

 

Head into the front and you know you're in somewhere traditional and special. Parma ham hang for the ceiling around the bar, and pictures of guests - presumably famous - with the owners line the wall. It ouzes class without being remotely posh.

 

 

You need to book in, either by phone or at the english-speaking bookings desk at the far end of the bar. Its reputation goes before it with many tourists checking it out so if you just turn up expect to wait in the bar half an hour. Remember, the spanish eat late so if you turn up earlier you're in with a better chance. Call 93 301 20 41 for bookings.

 

 

The restaurant itself spreads out beyond the bar on the ground floor and upstairs. As well as snails there are many fish specialities, the obligatory paella and zarzeuela. Expect main, desert and house wine to set you back around 40 euros each - worth every cent.

 

 

Elsewhere in the Gothic Quarter I tried out Tapas Gaudi twice. The fact VH1 is showing on plasma screens in the restaurant confirms it's not too upmarket. I had paella and fiduea - that's a paella with noodles, if you weren't sure - both ok, without being sensational. Service was hit and miss - excellent first time, slow the second - but two courses and a couple of beers will still leave you change from 20 euros.

 

 

On La Ramblas restaurant Zerzuala, close to Liceu on the left hand side as you look down towards the harbour, was reasonable. Fish stew was apparently the speciality - paella and pizzas rocked in at reasonable prices and there was a paella and sangria option for 10.50 euros. Tasty and speedy service, although it was more cafe than restaurant.

 

 

 

Where to drink

 

 

You can grab a beer at most local cafes - most double up as breakfast joints, lunch options and bars so this concentrates more on where you can find a bar with the football on.


 

And you are in luck. Barca has more sports bars - mainly irish bars - than you can shake a shamrock at, although to spend your entire holiday in one would be a waste with such a great city outside. And bear in mind a pint of the black stuff will cost you 5.50 to 6 euros, over £4 and substantially higher than the local brews.

 

 

However, to catch a big game many are based around Liceu metro station halfway down La Ramblas. To get your bearings, all these directions are as you look down towards the harbour end.

 

 

Hogans Bar is on the right with several big screens, including a large back room.

 

 

 

Further down and just off to the right is the Irish Rambler, a busy and fairly cramped bar which always seems to have toilets out of order when I visited.

 

Fifty yards further down, again on a side street on the right, is the Wild Turkey Tavern, worth a look.

 

 

Off to the left, heading towards the Gothic Quarter, is Molly Malone, the most Irish of all central bars in my humble opinion. The welcome is always warm, the beer good and it's more spacious than it first appears.

 

 

Opposite you'll find Temple Bar - one of the largest bars on two levels with a smattering of outside tables.

 

 

Others in the middle I'm aware of but yet to try: Scobies, close to Universitat; Jules Verne, the first you will see on the right you head down La Ramblas from Catalunya; Sports Bar, on the right south of Liceu; Flaherty's in Plaza Joaquim, near Drassanes metro; Paddy's Inn near Barcelonetta.

 

 

Close to La Sagrada Familia is the Michael Collins. It's very authentically irish and is less touristy than those found around La Ramblas. It's long, vast with a big screen at the far end and an ideal spot for watching a big game without getting your Guinness spilled. Note that occasionally racing or rugby may be on so it's worth checking at the bar. It also does Sunday dinners. The Michael Collins is on the other side of the cathedral to Av Gaudi - walk past the small park and you should see it.

 

 

One non-sports option you should try out is Cafe Zurich. This is on the corner of Placa Catalunya - it's dozens of tables are packed all day but see if you can grab one, order a couple of drinks and watch the world go by. Check it out in late afternoon - see Barca on the move.

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