'WHY on earth are you going on holiday there?' That was the most common response when I announced I was heading to Belgrade, the capital of Serbia.

The TV and newspaper pictures of the battles in the Balkans are still fresh in the public consciousness. Although Milosevic is long gone, those images still form most people's knowledge of this part of the world, and to a degree, mine too.

I decided to board a BA plane there because I was fascinated to see just what this city, and south east European country was like at first hand.

What I can tell you is that Belgrade in the 2010s is certainly putting its recent troubles behind it. Now it's looking forward as an energetic, bustling, striking city, a fascinating mix of the modern and traditional.

The river Sava cuts though the city, with the old town rising up the hill on one side and the newer post Second World War part - Novi Beograd - to the other.



K

You'll probably want to spend much of your time in the older section and the first place to start is Trg Republike, (Republic Square). It's a pedestrian square featuring the imposing National Theatre and filled from dawn till dusk and well beyond with shoppers, strollers and those who simply want to while away time chatting in a street cafe/ bar - a popular Serbian pastime.

Heading down from here is the car-free boulevard Knez Mihailova, a street of the main designer stores which leads towards arguably Belgrade's biggest attraction, the fortress - Kalamegdan.

Covering around 60 acres, you can happily spend a few hours exploring the amazingly complete ramparts and towers dating back through the centuries. Sitting astride the top of the hill, it also affords tremendous views of  the Sava and Danube rivers below.

Entry to the fortress is absolutely free - but if you wish to part with your dinars there's a variety of craft and souvenir stalls including pieces from Communist days and copies of the infamous 50 billion dinar note from Yugoslavia's days of rampant inflation.

The site also contains the military museum, a detailed if slightly heavyweight look back at the Balkan's long and eventful history - as well as a natural history museum and zoo.

The biggest figure in the region's recent history was Josip Tito, war hero and subsequent lifelong charismatic president of Yugoslavia. He died in 1980 - and and his body lies in a mausoleum (Kuca Cveca) a couple of miles south of the centre, together with a collection of gifts presented to him over the decades by world leaders.

Resting place: Tito's mausoleum

I reached the Tito memorial complex via the open tour hop on hop off tourist bus, which whisks you around the various landmarks in Belgrade (1500rsd/ £13 for 24 hours). The other stunning sight to take in en route is St Sava's church, one of the biggest orthodox churches in the world.

And both are handily close by to the two big clubs of Belgrade - Partizan and Red Star.

Belgrade isn't beautiful but it's bubbly and confident - and you feel reassuringly safe wandering around the centre well into the evening.

Yes, the street signs in Cyrllic alphabet can have you scratching your head at times but there's usually somebody who speaks a smattering of english who can help you out. And if you can get your head around the public transport system the rattling trolley buses, trams and buses will take you around the city at low price.




Belgrade isn't on the tourist map for overseas visitors yet - at some venues the attendants can outnumber the visitors at quiet times. But it's growing, with the bus tour, a Saturday morning walking tour in English, boat trips and more. There's cash points and exchange kiosks at every corner and your money will go a long way.

So why not discover Belgrade before the hordes do?

 

Tourist Information is at the airport, and in Trg Republike.