A legend of Eastern Europe, that's who. Red Star may trip off the tongue to more followers overseas and have the bigger ground, but make no mistake, Partizan have a history to be proud of.

Formed in 1945, they took part in the very first European Cup game in 1955, and then were the first Eastern European side to make it to the final, playing and losing to Real Madrid in 1966.

They have reached the Champions League twice - in 2003-4, after beating Newcastle in the qualifiers, and now 2010-11. After playing in blue and red for several years, Partizan have reverted to black and white kit. Move over, Juve...

Check out their website, which has an English version.

Where do you come from? Stadion Partizan

The Partizan Stadion dates from Yugoslavia's communist era, built in 1949.

Look out for the lights: The stadium as seen, just downhill, from the main road close to stops for trolleybus 40 and 41.

It does have a fairly plush new glass fronted entrance - where among the hospitality you'll also find the modestly sized club shop - but apart from that, from the outside at first impressions it's one concrete bowl, with distinctive floodlights rising high above. They're your first clue that you're near the stadium.

It's perched on the side of a hill in one of Belgrade's most affluent parts, and is a mere quarter of a mile from its neighbours FC Crvena Zvezda, still better known as Red Star.

Once enjoying a capacity of more than 50,000, safety and seating now see it hold 30,000, fully seated. It  is open to the elements and has a running track around the pitch.

Glassy: The main frontage of the stadium, with the club shop below right.

There are tennis courts round the back - a reminder that, as with many European clubs, Partizan is a sports club with teams in numerous disciplines including basketball.

Locally the stadium is known as Grobari, which means the Temple of Football apparently.

We're on our way: Getting to the ground

It's a long walk from Belgrade old town to the stadium (directions later if you choose it) so your cheapest bet is to go by tram/ trolley bus.

Trolley buses 40 and 41 ply the route from the old town to the stadium area - you can hop off at the Tito Memorial Complex (you'll see it on the right, as you go down the middle of a dual carriageway). If you miss that, look out for Partizan floodlights down the hill on the left hand side and hop off at the next  stop. Each ride costs about 40p - you buy tickets from kiosks close to stops then stamp them on board, or at worst from the driver.

Welcome to Partizan: The ground as seen from the road.

Alternatively you can hitch a taxi, at least to get there anyway. Taxis in Belgrade are pretty reasonably priced, just find out a fare before you travel.

The ground is a ten minute walk from the new Belgrade Centar railway station, due to open in late 2010.

If you do want to walk from the old town, here goes. From the main Republic Square head south along Kolarceva, then into Terazije and follow that long road past Kralja Milana. Go over Slavija Square and along Bulevar Oslobodenja. Cross over the motorway, then when you reach Liberation Square turn right up Dr Milutina Ivkokica, the group is five minutes up on the right. I'd allow a good 45 minutes to an hour. There are a few bars on the way early on but not for the final leg, save for a few around Liberation Square.

After the end of the game, walk to the road Dr Milutina Ivkokica (the other end from the glass entrance). You can go right up the hill and catch trolleybus 40 or 41 back to the old town. Alternatively to walk back go left down the hill. When you reach Liberation Square at the bottom, turn left and follow that long road back towards the centre of town. Along that route you can hop on tram/trolleybus 9 - then jump off at the main Slavija Square and take tram/ trolleybus 19-29 up to the old town.

Bag a seat: buying a ticket

Along with elsewhere in Serbia, league attendances are on the low side. Partizan's average last season was 6,000 so buying a ticket on the day of the game isn't tricky. The exceptions to the rule are, of course, European competitions or the derby with Red Star when you should buy in advance.

Tickets are cheap, a few quid, so it shouldn't break the bank.

Grab a souvenir: Store

There's one club store, at the posh end of the stadium which has the glass frontage.

It's round the other side from the road you come in on. The store is modestly sized with a reasonable selection of souvenirs to pack in your bag. Or go online by clicking here