Who are yer? Crvena Zvezda

Crvena Zvezda. But on the off chance that means nothing to you then I'm sure their more international name of Red Star Belgrade does.
Red Star Belgrade. A European name of my youth, places even the english teams feared to go behind the Iron Curtain back in the 70s and 80s.

Take a pew: One end of the stadium.

That was the time when teams like Red Star were genuine European competitors. In fact they were European Cup winners as recently as 1991, and indeed were crowned World Champions that year too. It was the pinnacle of a famous club history where they were the undisputed kings of the former Yugoslavia, dominating the domestic leagues through the fifties, sixties, seventies and eighties.
But the war of the early 1990s saw Yugoslavia fall apart and the next decade were lean times for the Red Star boys.
Things started to come good in the noughties, but they haven't won the domestic Serbian league since 2007 (watching with envy as rivals Partizan lifted the title instead).

Where do you come from: Stadion Crvena Zvezda

Stadion Crvena Zvezda. Or, again, more catchily the Marakana, named after the famous giant bowl in Brazil as at its peak the ground held 110,000 spectators.
These days it's all seated, with an impressive 55,000 capacity and still resembling a giant bowl. It's the biggest stadium in the Balkans, don't you know.

Welcome to Red Star; The Marakana

It has a certain feel of old Wembley about it, frankly its graffiti daubed exterior has seen better days and for the most part the bog standard spectator facilities aren't really up to 21st Century football.
But, as my friendly guide (the commercial manager who was a big help) was at pains to say, they're doing it up. And certainly the executive areas are as plush as anywhere I've seen, so the future's looking brighter.
As said, it's one big one-tiered bowl, maybe a bit like Hampden Park in that regard, with the main stand covered by a bigger roof and rising just that bit higher than the rest.. It's largely undercover although expect a soaking if you're at the seats at the front.
Despite its age, built in the 1960s, it's still an impressive sight of red and white seats, and although I've yet to witness a Belgrade derby I sense the place rocks.

From the outside: The concrete bowl that is the Marakana

It has an impressive history too, being the venue of the 1976 European Championship finals.
Plans for a new 60,000 Red Star Stadium were revealed in 2010 but they could be some time away.

We're on our way: Getting to the ground

The Marakana is just a few hundred yards from Partizan's stadium, a couple of miles due south of the centre of Belgrade.
It's one long walk from the centre, possible but i'd suggest getting public transport - either trolleybus 40 or 41 will take you there and then it's just a short walk. Get off the next stop after the Tito Memorial.
Alternatively hop on tram 9 and get off at Liberation Square. The stadium is a short walk up Ljutice Bogdana.
If you do decide to walk, head due south from Republica Square along the main road Terazije, which becomes Kralja Milana, all the way to Slavia Square. Go across and right to continue along the main Bulevar Oslobodenja. Pass the stunning St Sava's Church, over the motorway and to Liberation Square where you walk ahead along Ljutice Bogdana.

This is where you hop off: Liberation Square, with St Sava's Church in the distance.

It is actually just a short walk from what is planned to be Belgrade's spanking new train station, decades in the making - but as I understand it this station at Prokop is still to open, and Belgrade Central Station terminus remains closer to the old town.

Who ate all the pies: Eating and drinking

I can't vouch for the food and drink facilities inside, although I'd predict modest rather than exceptional. There are a few cafe bars in the area of Liberation Square, just down the road from the stadium and the stopping off point from trolleybus 9. Other than that the recommendation is probably to stick in the town centre where you're tripping over bars and restaurants.

Bag a seat: Buying a ticket

On a regular matchday you'll have no problem in grabbing a ticket. Crowds are the highest in Serbia but you're talking 10,000-15,000 odd at best, so finding an empty seat isn't difficult. And they're cheap.
If you're thinking about the Belgrade derby that's a different matter, I'd check the website for more info on that one.

On tour, grab a souvenir: Tours and stores

Red Star has a well stocked club shop just inside the main entrance to the ground, home to a healthy selection of merchandise. It opens from 9am Monday to Saturday, but be aware of a 3pm finish on Saturdays. Feel free to check out the Ultras shop just round the corner, but also inside the stadium concourse, for a more edgy 'bade of honour' selection.

The club store at the stadium (Inclusive of dodgy flash)

You'll also find two other Red Star stores in more central Belgrade: one in Oblicev Venac 24, close to Repulica Square, and also Kralja Milana 23, slightly further south of the main centre on the way to the stadium. Both open at 9am, Monday to Saturday.

There is a museum inside the stadium, and I was fortunate enough to take a peek inside. When I visited it was due to be open, but wasn't - but I asked inside the club store and a friendly club manager opened it up for me to take a look around, so I suggest you do the same. It's a dark room lit up with Red Star's impressive portfolio of trophies plus a myriad of other memorabilia.

There are also tours of the Marakana on Tuesdays, Thursdays and also Saturday non-matchdays but expect these to be in Serbian and I can't help you on times i'm afraid. Ask at the club shop, or call  011 / 414 09 09.