Dusseldorf sits in the shadow of Cologne. Not literally - although they are all of a short river cruise apart - but when it comes to the tourist trail, Dusseldorf is left trailing in the wake of its neighbour down the Rhein.

Cologne is a city that does business and tourism. Dusseldorf is a city that does business with a nod to tourism, and you're unlikely to encounter huge swathes of visitors during a stay there.

However, don't be too quick to write it off your list of places to go. The lack of overbearing tourism is one of its plus points as this vibrant and bustling city still has copious bars and restaurants in the compact Aldstadt (old town), and a smattering of attractions that aren't overrun which can make for a worthwhile short stay.

There's an old piece of Dusseldorf, honest. This is it. Or it may just be cobbles.

To say Dusseldorf is a pretty city would be stretching the truth a bit but viewed from the River Rhein - with river cruises inevitably available - the city landscape is certainly striking with the odd historic building dwarfed by gleaming post-war architecture.

The cobbled streets of the Aldstadt, with its pleasant market place and laid back atmosphere, is right next to the river and is the place you are most likely to keep returning to.

One of Germany's economic hubs since the war, Dusseldorf continues to be a focal point for trade. It's trade fair (messe) is one of the busiest around and it is the regional and international expense accounts that ensure it's one of the richest cities in Europe.

As a result it's a real shopping mecca, and that's abundantly clear with the world-class names you'll find plying their trade on Konigsallee.

If modern art's your thing the K20 and K21 galleries should be on your list of things to do. Add in film and theatre museums and there's more than a dose of culture to enjoy, particularly if the weather turns.

If you want an alternative take on it all, take a short walk along the riverfront to the Rheinturm, the radio tower that affords views across the city and as far as Cologne on a good day. It's open daily until late, from 10am at weekends and 11am on weekdays.

Down by the riverside: Sunday by the river in Dusseldorf.

It's a cosmopolitan city with a special leaning towards Japan. It has the third largest Japanese population in Europe with a string of sushi and karaoke bars in the area around Immermannstrasse, close to the train station. There's even a House of Japanese Culture on the other side of the river with the sole purpose of introducing visitors to the eastern ways of life.

Dusseldorf will never be a must on the tourist trail. First impressions arriving at the railway station aren't great, as the area immediately around is not the most salubrious. But the middle is a pleasant place to hang out, it's well located close to a host of other German cities making it handy as a base - and if you accept it for what it is, it does the trick for a few days.

Dusseldorf: where to eat, drink and stay

The Aldstadt, with it's pleasant market place, is a stone's throw from the river and this is the main area Dusseldorfers (if that's right, it's either going to be that or Dusseldorfians) gather to chill and party.

Certainly the area around Bolkerstrasse (close to the Marktplatz and Rathaus) is heaving on Friday and Saturday nights (although pretty dead on Sundays I have to say). On the Marktplatz is a busy Irish bar O'Reilly's with an impressive list of local and English sport on the big screens.

If you're achingly cool and chic apparently you should head for MedienHafen, a shiny new area just down the Rhein from the TV tower. It's full of trendy bars and restaurants for the trendy crowd. I didn't go.


Where to stay - well, the key is avoid the trade fair schedule and you'll be able to pick up hotel rooms at reasonable prices. If you hit trade fair time, availability plummets and prices shoot up. In quiet times you'lll often find more than 200 hotels to choose from, with many situated between the main station and the aldstadt, which is probably a good spot to base yourself.

Pitstop in Dusseldorf: The Batavia Hotel

For the record I stayed in the perfectly acceptable Batavia Hotel, a small german hotel in Bahnstrasse, around half a mile from the station and a slightly longer walk to the old town. It has about 30 rooms, internet access, a small bar and a breakfast that ticks the boxes. We had the bonus of a balcony - complete with synthetic grass and a view over the neighbours. Excellent!