Freiburg: the city
In my journeys around Bundesliga cities I have to say Freiburg ranks right up there as a great place to visit.
Right in the very south western corner of Germany, two hours from Stuttgart and closer to Switzerland than any other major German clubs, its big claim to fame is being the gateway to the legendary Black Forest, the German folk image of cuckoo clocks and Ladehosen.


Picture postcard stuff: The Rathaus in Freiburg.
It's right on the edge of the forest, with the woods easily seen stretching up the hills that surround Freiburg and with a train taking you up to the heart of them in half an hour, the forest is well worth a visit if you have the time.
It's worth making time to stay in Freiburg. It's more than just a forest gateway, its middle is picture postcard stuff, busy with tourists yes but the locals stamp their mark on it and the university population makes it a lively place to be.
The one stand out sight is the main church, the Munster - and it is not easy to miss as it's by far the biggest building in town.
The red standstone building is a stunning piece of work, with bits dating back to the 12th Century.
What sets it apart from other grand places of worship is that this was no cathedral, just a parish church, funded by the locals.


Good for a wander: The side streets of Freiburg
Ironically now the church is having to go cap in hand to the public again. It is in need of urgent renovation and you can buy your own stone there if you're willing to cough up 300 euros. In 2009 that sadly meant part of the building was hidden behind the scaffolding, You can still take a wander in, unless services are taking place, and there are daily tours.
The Munsterplatz surrounding it is as busy as it has been for centuries, with a daily food and flower market pulling in the locals and cafes surrounding the outside.
One other place worth checking out is the more peaceful square hosting the grand Alt Rathaus, town hall to you and me, which also now doubles up as a sizeable Tourist Information Centre. There are once weekly tours in english on Saturdays at 11am - or if you so desire you can pick up an audio guide and make your own way round. Check out here for more info.
However, Freiburg's charm is best sussed out by wandering the winding streets in the area around Munsterplatz and the Rathaus square, home to shops, bars and restaurants but never seeming too packed.
To get a view from above it's worth taking a hike into the Schlossgarten, on a hillside to the east of the old town.
I made the walk up there which didn't go down as the greatest move of my life - instead I'd recommend taking the Schlossberg Bahn cable car, which is basically a funicular (not sure what the difference between a cable car and a funicular is really) that takes you straight up there in three minutes. Be warned, you still need to do some walking at the top to get some decent views. But at least you hadn't climbed up that far..


Looking down: The view of Freiburg from the top.
It runs from 9am daily until evening, with a single costing 2.80 euros, return a fiver. There's a small cafe at the bottom, bar restaurant at the top.
I went down in it - clearly the wrong direction.
Do take a trip out of town. The tourist information has a host of day trips but you can do it yourself cheaply and easily. Grab a train from Hauptbahnhot to Titisee (running every 30 minutes, 4.80 singles). The 40 minute ride offers stunning views as it cuts through the mountains and a gorge close to Hollental.
Titisee is a tourist town based by a lake in the heart of the forest - popular with the retired, with more hotels, restaurants, souvenir stores and cuckoo clocks than you can shake a stick at. There's not tonnes to see but it's very relaxed. From the station turn right and head down towards the lake.


Black Forest but no gateaux: Titisee
You can also stay on the train a little further and go to Barental, which has German's highest mainland station.
Its position, its laid back lifestyle and its charm make Freiburg a great place to head to for a few nights. And you don't need to be a forest hiker to like it.
