Who are yer? FC Kaiserslautern

 

Or simply FCK, which isn't that surprising if you're rivalling Monchengladbach for the longest name in German football.

In a modest sized town it's a big football club with a proud past. One of the original Bundesliga members in 1963, they finally got their hands on serious silverware with the German Cup in 1990 and the Bundesliga itself in 1991.

It was mixed feelings in 1996 - they won the cup again, but had been relegated the previous weekend, the first time they had dropped out of the top flight. But hell hath no fury like a Red Devil, and under the guidance of Otto Renhagel they went on to win the second division - and then the Bundesliga the following season, unprecedented in German history. That was followed by a run to the quarter finals of the Champions League, their best European performance.

 

 

 

The home end: The Westkurve at the stadium.

However, problems off the pitch then enveloped the club. The newly improved stadium, and big wages for mercenary players, nearly crippled the club and forced them to sell the ground to the city to avoid bankruptcy.

However, in 2006 they went down in bottom place and two years later only narrowly avoided dropping into the 3 Liga. 2009 went better, competing at the right end of Bundesliga 2 but form fell away at the end to leave them outside the top places.

 

Where do you come from? Fritz Walter Stadion

The Fritz Walter Stadion, named after the man who led the club's rise after the war, is perched high on a steep sandstone hill and is easily visible - although from afar it's industrial and imposing facades could easily be confused as a factory. I did anyway.

 

Imposing it certainly is, significantly rebuilt for the 2006 World Cup. Three sides reach up to the sky, each with two tiers - and two big tiers at that.

At one end is the vast home terrace, the Westkurve, with a passionate following, including a belting rendition of You'll Never Walk Alone. Although the wearing scarves bearing their nickname The Red Devils does seem a bit funny when they're singing Liverpool's anthem. Check it out in this video here:

 

Up on the hill: a glimpse of hte Fritz Walter Stadion.

 

 

To the right of this is a popular side stand, whilst at the other east end visitors are housed in terracing in a small corner. The final fourth side sees the smaller, main stand with scoreboards on ground level in both corners.

The capacity is a whopping 48,500 - whopping when you consider that K-Town is not the biggest place you'll ever go to, and that the side has struggled of late. They achieve a good 30,000 fans per week but due to the size of the ground, and the fact a huge number gather in the home terrace, the other end of the ground can seem pretty empty in comparison.

Facilities below the stands are extensive and impressive. Undearneath the big stand at the side it resembles a beer hall, with half a dozen food and drink outlets and three or four rows of picnic tables. Before evening games fans are tucking into virtual full meals before the game.

 

 

Mine's a pint: The beer hall style concourses underneath the Sudtribune.

One word of warning - if you rock up to the kiosk and try and pay by cash you're in trouble. I did and looked a suitable prat.

You need to buy a Just Pay card which you then top up with money, and your card gets swiped at the counter. The cards are available from counters on the other side of the concourse, and roaming tellers too. Also remember there's a one euro deposit for your specially designed FCK  plastic glass. Cheap souvenir I say.

 

 

We're on our way: Getting to the ground

The stadium is pretty close to the rail station but Google Maps didn't really show just what a hill there is to climb - making it a good 20 minute walk.

From the station, come out of the main entrance and head right along Bahnhofstrasse. At a major roundabout, complete with an FCK statue, turn right, head under the railway lines and follow the footpaths and crowds up the hill.

 

 

Welcome to K-Town: The roundabout at the foot of the hill - you head to the right of this up to the stadium.

 

When you reach the top of the path follow the road left and round to the ground, arriving at the corner of the Westkurve and Sudtribune. There's a host of street food and bars, with one popular stop once you're gone under the railway line.

From the old town, make your way south down the main Eisenbahnstrasse until it reaches the same roundabout mentioned above - then go straight over.

 

 

Bagging a seat: Buying a ticket


With a 48,500 capacity there's a good chance of bagging a ticket for all but the biggest games - although they are well supported so it's wise to book online. Simply visit the club ticket website, with parts in english.

For such a smart modern ground the ticket collection booth was a rundown kiosk in a car park when I visited. When you get to the main corner of the ground, walk to the right of the stadium and you'll see the kiosk in a car park on the right. You'll need to show your passport.

To buy on the day, simply look out for the Kasse counters at the ground - as you approach the main corner they are around on your right. All ticket counters open three hours before kick off.

 

 

There's a C betweek the F and K but nothing else: The away end.

 

Tickets for the Westkurve terrace are a bargain at 11 euros. Seats vary in price from 17.50 euros at the back to 36.50 euros in the front centre. Those at the 21 to 25 bracket will give you a seriously good view.

 

 

Who ate all the pies? Eating and drinking


The busy old town of K-Town is a 20 minute walk from the stadium so it's a good place to head pre-and post match.

If you're arriving from the station come out, head straight on down Richard-Wagner Strasse , past Beethoven, Weber and Mozart Strasses on your right, until you reach the pedestrian Pirmasenserstrasse on your right.

Head up here, crossing Rosenstrasse into Kerststrasse, and you'll eventually reach Scneidstrasse main road. Cross over into Marktstrasse and you're in the old town, with a mix of street cafes and the odd TV bar.

To reach Thursty Nelly's irish pub continue up Marktstrasse and cross the Spittlestrasse dual carriageway - it's 100 yards up Stenistrasse (call 00 49 631 892 259).

I found a lively atmosphere, plus TV football, at Brauhaus am Markt, in the heart of the old town at Stiftsplatz.

 

 

For further options check out this  In Your Pocket guide.

A number of street bars and fast food spots pop up on the walkways up to the stadium, with a healthy (well, not healthy but you know what i mean) selection of options inside.

 

 

 

Grab a souvenir: Club stores

You have to enter the ground on matchdays to access the stores. They are fair sized, although not huge, andn open at half time and full time too.

Check out the online store by clicking here. Expect a good choice of stuff with Red Devils all over it, just be warned you'll look like a Man U fan anywhere outside the city walls.

There are actually a selection of ground tours for the FCK diehards, including food. Expect them to be entirely in German though and they appear to be on request.

For further info, should you be unable to resist, call 0049 1805 3188 00 or visit the club site