Real Madrid
Who are yer? Real Madrid
So who are yer? Well, if you don't know who Real Madrid are you really have been living in a cave... for a very long time. And you've probably ended up on the wrong website.
But here's the brief. If you're going on European success, then Real Madrid are up there. Right up there at the top.
The club has got its clutches on the European Cup an incredible nine times, more than anybody else. It certainly helped that the team were on the top of their game in the fifties when the competition began, as they romped to the first five titles. Throw in two UEFA Cups and it's an impressive haul.
It doesn't stop there. Real is possibly the only club that can claim to have more cups in its trophy cabinet than in its canteen. The European haul is topped off by more than 30 La Liga titles, plus 17 Copa del Reys.
In 2000 Real decided to turn its power to financial benefit. In rolled the famous Galacticos - Zidane, Beckham and Figo. Ironically the club then went without a trophy until they big names started to leave. Now Real are back winning La Liga and the future looks bright.
Where do you come from: Bernabeu
Football grounds are rarely pretty. They can be grand, like Arsenal's much-missed Highbury, as imposing as St James Park in Newcastle, and more often than not simply ramshackled - look no further than Luton Town.
But it's big. It's dominant. It's impressive. And although the Nou Camp may have the edge on capacity, Estadio Bernabeu definitely wins on vastly superior facilities.
The ground was built in 1947. It grew upwards in 1954 and then had a good old tart-up for the 1982 World Cup Final.
More renovation took place in the early nineties before the stadium was effectively completed in 2003 - the four sides merged into a bowl, with all seats covered - a rarity in Spain.
It days of old more than 100,000 packed into the stadium but slowly the terracing became seating and now the capacity is a mere 75,000.
From outside it's a concrete monolith - but just wait til you head inside. Escalators whisk you up to the top level - the fourth tier - and in case it'sa bit chilly, there are even heaters in the roof. It really is a spectacular sight on a matchday.
We're on our way: Getting to the ground
If you hare into town from the airport by taxi there's a fair chance you'll fly by the stadium - look out on your left hand side.
As said earlier, the Bernabeu is in the less than thrilling part of town (now there's a surprise for a football ground). The area around it is largely business and residential and shopping but it is pretty easy to find - on one of the main roads into town.
By night: The entrance to the stadium
If you are heading to the ground by metro, probably the best way to be honest, you need to grab the blue Line 10 towards Fuencarral and hop off at the cunningly titled Santiago Bernabeu - the ground is right in front of you. You can grab a direct metro from Plaza de Espana or Tribunal - or it's a one stop strategy from the central Gran Via or Opera stations.
It takes around ten to 15 minutes to make the journey from the middle. You could walk it if you were so inclined but it's a good mile or more up the Paseo de la Castellana.
Who ate all the pies: Eating and drinking
There's no great pre-match culture in Spain. That's probably made clear by the fact that there's a small bar close to the metro stop, a stone's throw from the turnstiles - and even that's not packed on a matchday.
There are one or two bars further round to your rightbut one definite option is the Irish Rover, the establish bar just 400 yards form the stadium. Showing British and Spanish - and bizarrely Brazilian - football, it's an ideal spot for a pre-and post match pint which helps you skip the prospect of 50,000 odd people boarding the metro at the same time. To reach it, on exiting the Bernabeu metro leave in the opposite direction to the stadium, this takes you up the other side of a very wide road. From there head left off the main road, then zigzag first right, then left, through a small plaza playground area and the bar is in front of you.
Form an orderly queue: Post-match crowds outside the stadium.
Of course you may prefer to grab a swift San Miguel in the centre of town first, as you can reach the ground within 20 minutes without any problem.
There are a smattering of food options on match day around and if you head over the other side of the carriageway there's a shopping centre with a couple of restaurants that may still be open which may take your fancy. Alternatively grab a bite inside - kiosks rarely get that busy. Nuts are the speciality - with the results below.
Post match clean-up: Nuts are the order of the day at Madrid grounds.
Bag a seat: Buying a ticket
It's the hottest ticket in town. Games are pretty much always sold out so laying your hands on a prized ticket to Real isn't spectacularly easy.
Tickets go on sale to season ticket holders, then members, then fan card holders before finally landing on general sale.
These go on sale in Madrid around a week before the game but frankly that's not going to be of much use if you're just there for the weekend - there's a good chance they will have all gone.
Pre-match flag: A 'small' flag offering from the Madrid ultras.
So i'd definitely recommend in this instance bagging seats with our official ticket provider Nickes - click here for our tickets page
However, if you don't want to fork out for your seat your other chance could be to ring up the ground and try your luck.
According to the helpful GoMadrid website, call (+34) 902-324-324 and ask for an English-speaking operator. If the gods are smiling on you and there are tickets left, you can pay over the phone with a credit card and later collect them at Gate 14 at the stadium on matchday.
On tour, grab a souvenir: Tours and stores
You can take a tour of the Estadio Santiago Bernabeu. You won't be the only one as it's a big draw for Spaniards and random foreign visitors.
One pleasure is that unlike many other stadium tours, you are free to wander at your own pace. High-speed lifts glide you to the top tier where you get a breathtaking view of the stadium. It's an early warning if you find that's where you're sitting for a game - the seats are so steep that railings hold the specators in.
Down below and you glimpse the cosseted world of the players of Real Madrid. The Real dressing room is so sacred you're not allowed in. But you are treated to the visitors' area and walk up the tunnel to the pitch.
Not a bad view from up here: As seen on the Bernabeu tour
You can even sit in the same place on the substitutes bench where England striker Michael Owen spent most of his time at the club.
Perhaps the highlight is left until last. A trip through the Real trophy room is a humbling experience for supporters of any other club. Countless Spanish league and cup wins. And nine, yes nine, European Cups.
You finish in the Madrid club shop.
It's grown substantially in recent years (on my first visit it was a pokey lower league sized affair) and is now spread over two floors. it has the usual selection of merchandise to deprive you or your euros and as with Barca, you'll find Madrid merchandise at every other shop in town.
You'll find the club shop around the other side of the ground from the metro station. It's open seven days.
Tour del Bernabeu: Opening times: Daily 10am to 7pm (Sundays and bank holidays 10.30am to 6.30pm). tours end five hours before kick off. After Saturday games there are Sunday tours, but after Sunday matches there are no Monday tours. Entry: Adults 16 euros, children 11 euros (2011 prices). You can book online but it's easy just to turn up and buy on the day - head to Window 10 next to Gate 6, or go to Tower B (the nearest one to the metro station).
You'll find more information on the history of Real Madrid and the Bernabeu at Eventguides.com
Most recently visited: November 2011
First visited: January 2005
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