Who are yer?

AC Milan

Well, I'm putting AC first simply because of alphabetical order. AC, by the way, stands for Associazione Calcio. It was founded by an Englishman, and apart from a couple of dodgy years in the early 1980s it's spent all the time in Serie A. And mainly at the top of it.

It has won 18 recognised international titles, a record it jointly holds with Boca Juniors. That includes an astonishing seven European Cups, second only to Real Madrid. Add to that 18 Italian league titles (exactly the same, ironically, as Inter) and you know you're in the presence of a footballing great.

The famous red and black colours have been worn by such footballing greats as Paolo Mandini, Franco Baresi, Clarence Seedorf and Robinho. And you can throw in Ray Wilkins, David Beckham, and of course, Luther Blissett.

Inter

Magical on a Milan matchday: The San Siro.

Inter Milan

The boys in black and blue, Internazionale, have held the upper hand in the latter noughties, something which has helped them stand tall against AC's illustrious history.

They won the league title for five successive years between 2006-10, a record, making 18 in total and briefly taking them ahead of AC in the 'i've won more Scudettos than you' stakes. Throw in a first European Cup for 45 years in 2010 under Jose Mourinho (that makes three in total)  and it has been a golden period for them.

It too has had its far share of legends. Cesar, Ronaldo, Roberto Carlos, Marco Tardelli, Karl Heinze Rummenigge and the legendary irishman Liam Brady are just a few that trip off the tongue.

Where do you come from? San Siro

San Siro. A colosseum in a country where they've had 2,000 years of experience in building them.

Several people who had made the pilgrimage to this district of western Milan told me it was pretty impressive. To be honest, I took that with a pinch of salt. Some big stadiums can leave me a bit cold – give me a ramshackled second tier dive any day.

Hands up, my cynicism was unfounded. It truly is an unbelievable venue to play football in, and should be a must-go on the itinerary of any football globetrotter for its sheer size and sound.

First built in 1926, it was last redeveloped for the World Cup finals in 1990 when the third tier was put on top, and the roof covering the entire stadium was put on.

On my visit, I heard the San Siro (officially called Guiseppe Meazza Stadium, after a player who played for both sides) before I could see it.  Admittedly it was a big game – AC had just won the league and it was a full house – but the noise could be heard half a mile away.

From outside it's a concrete giant, with giant cylindrical walkways, a la 1970s multi storey car parks, encircling it. Be warned – if you're on the third tier you'll be navigating these and there are no Wembley-style escalators to get you to the top. It's best foot forward.

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All peaceful: The San Siro on a non-matchday

To be honest, turning up late I feared chaos in finding my way in but it's actually pretty straight forward. There are huge Ingresso signs for each sector so find yours and you're in.

From the top of the San Siro the stadium is truly an awesome sight. Three sides have three tiers, including both ends, with the fourth side a mere.. a mere but still gigantic ... two tiers. Two mammoth scoreboards hang on either side and somehow the PA system manages to deafen out the sound of up to 80,000 crazy fans.

Grand: The Inter home end is to the left.

I've been at the top, and the atmosphere is great but the view of the pitch isn't. In the Blue end, the home end for AC games, the third tier has one 12 foot high perspex window at the front and huge netting right across the whole end, factors in place at the other Green end (Inter home end) too.

Add to that the inevitable fire crackers and subsequent smoke, and there will be times you can barely see a thing. Ironically you can view more of the action at the far end than the near goalmouth, although you'll spend most of your time guessing who actually scored.

Pretty lively: The San Siro from the Milan home end.

Inside the sectors are appallingly signed, particularly when it's dark and packed. That's my excuse anyway. Ask a steward for some vague help but frankly I realised afterwards I'd been sat – well stood – in the wrong sector all game. There's a map on the back of the ticket which will give you a rough guide of where to be – then look at the steps to each sector and they'll point you in the right direction.

We're on our way: Getting to the ground

In theory it's all relatively straightforward and public transport will get you there. You need to get on the Metro M1 and get off at Lotto, it's then a 20 minute walk (or a free bus transfer on matchdays) to the stadium.

The red M1 Line passes through Cadorna station (around 12 minutes to Lotto) and the central Duomo station (nearer 20 minutes to Lotto). From Centrale Stazione take the green M2 line to Cadorna and change, allow half an hour for the journey to Lotto.

Alternatively you can take Tram 16 (or 161) which run direct to the stadium. Tram 16  runs through the central Mazzini (Duomo) stop – to find the stop, with the Duomo and foreground in front of you, the stops are on the near right on the junction with Via Orefici.

You've made it: Matchday outside one corner of the San Siro.

However, best laid plans can go horribly wrong as well I know (an ultra pulled the emergency cord and brought the metro line to a halt an hour before kick off when I went), and with the trams now packed you have no option but to walk.

In that case you can walk to the San Siro from Cadorna Stazione, which is on the edge of the city centre. I won't recommend it, I have no intention of doing it again, but it can be done as myself and several thousand supporters did. With a combination of walking, running, and legging it across busy roads you can do the three and a bit mile route in about an hour. In the unlikely event of this happening, from the frontage of Cadorna station go ahead, then right along Via Giovanni Boccaccio and .. well, follow the crowds.

When you come to leave the San Siro after a game, I'd point you in the direction of a clutch of bendy buses parked up 100 yards from the Blue sector (near Ingressos 12/13). They're labelled 16 (or 161) and most seem to do a quick ten minute shuttle to St Angeli. From there you can hop on the M1 Metro back into the city.

If you're visiting the San Siro on a non-matchday bear in mind there are no shuttle buses from Lotto, so it's best foot forward for about 20 minutes. Cross over the main Piazzale Lorenzo Lotto, past the McDonalds and along Via Gavirate. At the end, at tram stop Segesta, bear across and right along leafy Via Simone Stratico all the way to the stadium.

Note, if you're waiting for tram/bus 16 or 161 at the stadium on non-matchday ignore the tram stop inside the car park near Ingresso 15, they don't go there. Cross the road into Piazza Axum where the buses stop on the right hand side.

Bag a seat: Buying a ticket

How you lay your hands on a ticket varies from fixture to fixture. The game I went to was going to be a sellout and wasn't being sold online so I had to go to a ticket agency.

However, for most games the San Siro isn't full. A certain number of tickets do go on sale online on the club websites. Alternatively you can purchase them at banks in the region beforehand.

The cheap seats: The back of the AC end.

However, as chances are you won't be in town before then you can buy them from the stadium in advance. Prices start at a very reasonable 14 euros – but bear in mind that may land you up in the gods. Note that any in Blue sector are lively home end for AC Milan, and Green sector lively home end for Inter.

Who ate all the pies: Eating and drinking

Outside the ground you're well stocked with places to eat and drink. Everything from paninis to hot dogs, soft drink and beer are sold from a host of kiosks that ring the stadium on matchday. There's also one permanent bar you can try out near Ingresso 15.

Inside it's a different matter and it's probably best to set yourself before you go in. Facilities inside are modest to say the least, small kiosks selling soft drinks and crisps and I couldn't even find one of those on the top tier (although I'm sure there was one somewhere).

On tour, grab a souvenir: Tours and stores

The San Siro museum and tour can be found at Ingresso 14.

I had high hopes of this but frankly ended up a little under whelmed. The museum, like everything in the San Siro, is split in half, one side for Inter and one for AC. There are some truly fascinating mementos from glorious nights over the decades, together with one of the most impressive clutches of trophies you're likely to see grace any cabinet in the world. A short video is playing too.

But frankly, unless you're a dedicated follow of other club's history it's unlikely to detain you for more than 20 minutes.

The tour is also fairly modest – in comparison to the size of the stadium you only see small bits of it. The clue comes at the start when you're told you will only be taking in things along the lower tier.

View from below: On the San Siro tour

There's a quick chat for you in the executive area, giving you the basics on the size and shape. Then it's down below to see the TV interview area, and into both home dressing rooms (there are three, one for visitors, one for AC and one for Inter). Interestingly they're quite small, - and both home ones are laid out entirely differently. Fans also get the chance to sit in the seat of their favourite player, which went down well in the largely AC fan-led contingent I went round with. Then it's a wander round the executive area, and.. that's it.

On the plus side the tour is given in English and Italian, they run pretty frequently, usually every 20 minutes, it doesn't drag on (around 30 minutes) and there are plenty of chances to grab pictures. But it's average at best in the value for money stakes and if you're already going to a game, I wouldn't say it is a 'must-do'.

You can buy tickets on the gate and unless it's really busy you'll probably be on a tour reasonably quickly. It's open 10am to 5pm (except matchdays).  The tour and museum costs 12.50 euros for adults, 10 euros concessions. The museum is just 7 euros (5 euros concessions). Visit www.sansirotour.com



The San Siro shop is next to the museum and open daily. Again it's split into two on non-matchdays but frankly the offerings are fairly modest and it's barely any bigger than you'd find for a third tier football club in England. And that's for two clubs.

On matchdays the whole shop is turned over to the home side. There are also five shops dotted around the stadium for you to pick up the usual offerings. On matchdays you can get into the main store via Ingresso 15. It's open 10am to 5pm, with changes to times on matchdays.

What's in store: The Inter side of the San Siro store.

However you can probably pick up anything you would like, and maybe more, at football fan shops dotted through the city (there are two or three very close to Duomo).

You'll find more information on the history of AC Milan and the San Siro at Eventguides.com

You'll find more information on the history of Inter and the San Siro at Eventguides.com