AIK Stockholm
Who are yer? AIK Stockholm
The bigger of the two main teams in Stockholm, certainly in terms of attendances anyway, the Black Army of AIK are one of the big boys of Swedish football. In face they've spent more seasons in the top flight than any other.
In a long history they've bagged 11 league titles and eight cups - the most recent in 2009 when they did the double. That put to an end a fairly fallow start to the noughties, including a relegation, after dominating Swedish football in the late nineties.
This fallow run actually saw bitter city rivals Djurgardens catch them up and briefly overtake them in the number of titles stakes - only for AIK to draw level. In 2010 the teams were separated by just one place in lower mid table.
AIK have made it to the group stages of the Champions League once, when the might of Arsenal, Barcelona and Fiorentina were just too strong.
Where do you come from: Rasunda Stadion
The Rasunda Stadium, home to AIK Stockholm and indeed the yellow army of the Swedish national team, is a traditional old ground dating back to the 1930s and renovated in recent decades. And it's part of a rare clutch of international stadiums to have had the honour of hostage a World Cup final - in 1958 when Pele's Brazil were winners.
The main (Vastra) stand is largely home to corporates and the best seats in the house, with boxes, press and lounge above. Opposite there is a two tier (Ostra) stand but it's the two ends that, for me anyway, give the ground its character.

Black army, black army, black army: The home end at the Rasunda
Virtually identical, they have fairly deep lower tiers split into front and back. Then on top there's a steep upper tier, and the overhanging roof gives the impression of spectators being right on the pitch. The home Black Army are to the left of the main stand, the Norra end, visitors to the near right in the Sodra end. The corners aren't filled in. Instead the old skool floodlights loom into view and you can a view of the buildings outside. Magic.
We're on our way: Getting to the ground
Simples. The best way is by Stockholm's quite frankly superb subway system.
The Rasunda resides in Solna, a suburb of Stockholm four miles from the middle. But there's a direct metro going there. Just hop on blue line T11 towards Akalla and get off at Solna centrum, five stops from the T-Centralen station, it takes 10 to 15 minutes. Make sure it's the T11, not the T10 or you'll end up in Hjulsta. And you don't want to do that.
On exiting the subway at Solna, signs point you in the direction of the stadium. When you come out into the open, look left and the stadium's just there, less that a five minute walk. You'll approach via the south (Sodra) end.

You can feel the pre-match tension: The view from the main stand
Who ate all the pies? Eating and drinking
There's an extremely handy set of bars immediately outside the side of the ground, very much home bars but an excellent place for a swift pre-match pint before crossing the road to take your seat.
Beer is on sale inside the stadium but is of the slightly lower alcohol content.
Bag a seat: Buying a ticket
With such a generous capacity, AIK games don't sell out. You can buy them on the website, but there's no problem with rocking up on the day although ticket prices will rise slightly and it's worth getting there early in case of queues at the ticket office. For a regular league game prices range from 130SEK (£13) to 300SEK (£30).
Bear in mind that the vocal Black Army congregate on the lower and middle sections of the Norra (north) end and stand throughout, so either head to/ or avoid this area, depending on what you're after. The only time you should definitely plan ahead is the derby game when crowds can be bigger.
To buy online visit www.aikfotball.se and click on Biljetter.
Grab a souvenir: Stores
There are two shops at the stadium - the larger one is behind the main (Vastra) stand and has more yellow and black gear inside than Watford. But maybe not quite as much as Borussia Dortmund. Despite Sweden's reputation for being on the pricey side, the merchandise was extremely reasonable so it's well worth checking out.
There's a small store behind the other (Ostra) side of the ground.
Alternatively you'll find a modest selection of shirts in the Stadium shop in Drottninggatan in the centre of Stockholm, behind the huge Ahlens City department store.
Alternatively head online: www.aikshop.se
