Fans' guide to Bratislava
Bratislava city and football guide
Bratislava: the city
Little Big City. That's Bratislava's slogan, adorning trams, buses and everything that moves or doesn't in the city. The contradiction is obvious but the reason behind it is clear.
Bratislava is one of Europe's newest capital cities, bestowed that title of Slovakia after the Czechs and Slovaks went through a very amicable divorce in 1993.
Capital city it is, putting it on an equal footing, at least on paper, with London, Berlin, Paris and Madrid.
But that's about where the similarities end. Spend a few days there and you are clear where the 'little' comes from. A city of 400,000, more Nottingham than Rome, it has a charming old town barely a mile wide.
Chilled: The town square by night
Most visitors will spend virtually their entire time in the old town, which has been given a whole new lease of life in the past decade. Once hidden under a grey communist curtain, it now buzzes with restaurants, shops and bars, packed most nights of the week once spring arrives.
At its very heart is the old town hall, housing a museum on Bratislava's history which dates back to its days in the Austro Hungarian empire and before. You van climb a winding staircase to the top of the clock tower, or head down to the basement, a former prison where you are shared the delights and imagination of medieval european torture.
The grand palace is the classic highlight of Bratislava, now used for ceremonial and state occasions. its oppulent interiors are open to visitors and they feature a rare set of medieval tapestries made in England, although no-one knows exactly how they came to end up there!
A castle, extensively rebuilt in more cent times, stands proudly on top of the hill overlooking the old town and also the main cathedral, the comparatively small but striking St Michael's.
There's one feature that dominates the city skyline - and it's a mere 36 years old.
The ruling communists wanted to build a new bridge over the River Danube and they went for impact. That meant bulldozing most of the city's historic Jewish Quarter in order to build it.
Many may not have forgiven them for that - but the result was one of the largest single span suspension bridges in the world, crowned at the top with a spaceship style tower.
Spot the UFO: The bridge and UFO tower in Bratislava
It reopened in 2005 after extensive renovation, is now called UFO, and now houses an observation desk affording spectacular views. There's also a classy restaurant, serving sky high food at sky high prices.
Check out this video below - heading to the top of the UFO Tower and taking in the views all round - featuring first the old town, the Danube, then the south side and then to the hills towards the old town.
Bratislava doesn't have a clutch of world-famous attractions but there are charming points of interest, including statues dotted around the streets.
They include one of a Slovak man peering out from a manhole cover - lazing around and looking up ladies' skirts, similar to many Slovak men according to sceptical Slovak women.
Another doffs a hat to one of the city's most colourful characters, who had a smile for every lady and was so popular stores gave him goods so he could carry their bags around.
The best day trip is a classic - Vienna is little more than an hour away and you can reach it via bus, train - or even better, down the Danube on a shuttle boat.
It's cheap, friendly, not over-run and it's a great place to spend a few days.
Getting there and around
Bratislava Airport
The best option in getting to Bratislava is to land at the city's small airport.
Bratislava Airport is on the compact side but it's modern and clean, and is just starting to appear on the radar of low cost airlines with several not plying the routes to the UK.
Ryanair heads there from London Stansted, Birmingham, Bristol, East Midlands and Edinburgh.
The airport is also a base for Slovakian low cost carrier Sky Europe which connects to Luton, links to Prague in the Czech Republic and also flies on to Kosice in the far east of the country, should you be so inclined. I've flown Sky Europe and it's to be recommended, the one difference from other no frills airlines being the allocation of a seat to avoid the bunfight on board.
There's only half a dozen gates and with just three or four flights per hour it's pretty relaxed. There's not an extensive range of ways to part with your remaining Slovak coins but there's a cafe bar with snacks, a shop, paper store and toilet facilities. One tip - if your gate is on the left hand side you have to go straight through passport control and baggage check, but don't fear - there are further food halls on the other side.
Smaller than Heathrow: Bratislava airport.
To get from the airport into town grab the 61 bus, which leaves from outside the terminal every half an hour, at 25 past and five minutes to the hour. This continues until midnight after which an hourly service kicks in at 00.57, but to be frank at that time a cab is the easier option.
The journey to the main train station takes around half an hour and passes the national stadium along the way.
If you pick up a Bratislava City Card from the tourist office at the airport that will get you a free bus ride in.
Bratislava train station
Across the world there are some stunning train stations, a tourist attraction in themselves. Think St Pancras in London, maybe Amsterdam.
Bratislava's is not one of them. It's a functional joyless block, and you're unlikely to want to spend too long there, and it's annoyingly just too far from the centre to want to walk it. You are still a mile or so from the old town, and quite probably your hotel too.
Buses terminate immediately outside the station - note you are set down one side of the terminus, and queue on the other side to get on.
Don't try to get on where people are getting off as usually the drivers have a ten minute breather and don't appreciate their fag break being interrupted.
To head into town by tram go downstairs to the right of the station for the terminus (see the picture below). A selection of lines terminate here, Tram 13 takes you towards the central areas and is the best option for a number of hotels.
Note that some trolleybuses pick up from the middle, rather than the one by the wall, so check out the computerised timetable at the end to see where you need to be.
Buying tickets
The central old town of Bratislava is in walking distance but to go any further you'll have to tackle the public transport system.
The network of trams, buses and trolleybuses is confusing at first but you soon find your feet. You can buy tickets for short journeys, covering ten minutes (14sk/40p), 30 minutes (18sk/50p) or one hour (22sk/60p). Note if you are heading to the airport that you should also purchase a ticket which also covers you for large baggage - the 30 minutes and one hour ones do.
However, if you're in town for any longer it's probably worth your while going for a longer time period as prices are really cheap. Buy a 24 hour (90sk/£2.40), 48 hour (170sk/£4.50), three day (210sk/£5.50) or seven day (310/£8) tourist ticket which covers you for all zones.
All aboard: The tram stop at the main train station.
You will find ticket machines across town, including in front of the main station, Hlavná stanica (open 5.30am to 9pm weekdays, and 8am to 4pm Saturdays), the bus terminal by Novy Most bridge and in front of the Crowne Plaza hotel (both open Monday to Friday, 9am to 7pm.
Alternatively you can buy a Bratislava City Card which gives you free use of all public transport plus a free sightseeing walk and a host of other discounts. On sale at the tourist centres in the airport, at the main train station and the main one in the Old Town at Klobucnicka 2, it costs 350sk/£9 for one day, 450sk/£12 for two days and 500sk/ £13.20 for three days.
Places to stay
Check out this map below of hotels in the centre of Bratislava. The old town is highlighted in blue. All of the hotels featured in this image are in comfortable walking distance of the middle of town.
View Larger Map
There are two clear categories of accommodation in Bratislava - the old and the new.
The venues of the communist era remain and the standards can be pretty average, but these are at the cheaper end of the market so may well appeal.
They are definitely one for a weekend, not the honeymoon, but if you're not too fussed they can really add to the experience of a trip to Slovakia.
The Hotel Kyjev (also known as Kiev) pictured right would certainly fit into this category. This 14 storey monolith - complete with a huge advert down one side - is easily spotted throughout the city centre so you should be able to find your way home.
The rooms, at least the one I was in, have seen better days, the bathroom ceiling leaked and the decor is a visual amazement. The TV was a portable on the floor and you can forget any english channels.
Having said that, the location's spot on, it's next to Tesco (is that good or bad?), there is free internet access, I found the staff friendly and spoke good english, and it serves up one of the best breakfasts i've had on the continent so don't rule it out.
In the past decade a number of high standard international chains have moved into town including the likes of Crowne Plaza, and the Radisson Carlton occupies a stunning building along the Hviezdoslavovo Námestie boulevard.
Go surfing for a bargain amongst these places, as standard prices for these places - catering for American visitors and business accounts - are pretty steep.
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- Bratislava: the city
- Getting there and around
- Places to stay
- Artmedia Petrzalka
- Slovan Bratislava (to come)
- Inter Bratislava (to come)
Bratislava: the city
Little Big City. That's Bratislava's slogan, adorning trams, buses and everything that moves or doesn't in the city. The contradiction is obvious but the reason behind it is clear.
Bratislava is one of Europe's newest capital cities, bestowed that title of Slovakia after the Czechs and Slovaks went through a very amicable divorce in 1993.
Capital city it is, putting it on an equal footing, at least on paper, with London, Berlin, Paris and Madrid.
But that's about where the similarities end. Spend a few days there and you are clear where the 'little' comes from. A city of 400,000, more Nottingham than Rome, it has a charming old town barely a mile wide.
Chilled: The town square by night
Most visitors will spend virtually their entire time in the old town, which has been given a whole new lease of life in the past decade. Once hidden under a grey communist curtain, it now buzzes with restaurants, shops and bars, packed most nights of the week once spring arrives.
At its very heart is the old town hall, housing a museum on Bratislava's history which dates back to its days in the Austro Hungarian empire and before. You van climb a winding staircase to the top of the clock tower, or head down to the basement, a former prison where you are shared the delights and imagination of medieval european torture.
The grand palace is the classic highlight of Bratislava, now used for ceremonial and state occasions. its oppulent interiors are open to visitors and they feature a rare set of medieval tapestries made in England, although no-one knows exactly how they came to end up there!
A castle, extensively rebuilt in more cent times, stands proudly on top of the hill overlooking the old town and also the main cathedral, the comparatively small but striking St Michael's.
There's one feature that dominates the city skyline - and it's a mere 36 years old.
The ruling communists wanted to build a new bridge over the River Danube and they went for impact. That meant bulldozing most of the city's historic Jewish Quarter in order to build it.
Many may not have forgiven them for that - but the result was one of the largest single span suspension bridges in the world, crowned at the top with a spaceship style tower.
Spot the UFO: The bridge and UFO tower in Bratislava
It reopened in 2005 after extensive renovation, is now called UFO, and now houses an observation desk affording spectacular views. There's also a classy restaurant, serving sky high food at sky high prices.
Check out this video below - heading to the top of the UFO Tower and taking in the views all round - featuring first the old town, the Danube, then the south side and then to the hills towards the old town.
Bratislava doesn't have a clutch of world-famous attractions but there are charming points of interest, including statues dotted around the streets.
They include one of a Slovak man peering out from a manhole cover - lazing around and looking up ladies' skirts, similar to many Slovak men according to sceptical Slovak women.
Another doffs a hat to one of the city's most colourful characters, who had a smile for every lady and was so popular stores gave him goods so he could carry their bags around.
The best day trip is a classic - Vienna is little more than an hour away and you can reach it via bus, train - or even better, down the Danube on a shuttle boat.
It's cheap, friendly, not over-run and it's a great place to spend a few days.
Getting there and around
Bratislava Airport
The best option in getting to Bratislava is to land at the city's small airport.
Bratislava Airport is on the compact side but it's modern and clean, and is just starting to appear on the radar of low cost airlines with several not plying the routes to the UK.
Ryanair heads there from London Stansted, Birmingham, Bristol, East Midlands and Edinburgh.
The airport is also a base for Slovakian low cost carrier Sky Europe which connects to Luton, links to Prague in the Czech Republic and also flies on to Kosice in the far east of the country, should you be so inclined. I've flown Sky Europe and it's to be recommended, the one difference from other no frills airlines being the allocation of a seat to avoid the bunfight on board.
There's only half a dozen gates and with just three or four flights per hour it's pretty relaxed. There's not an extensive range of ways to part with your remaining Slovak coins but there's a cafe bar with snacks, a shop, paper store and toilet facilities. One tip - if your gate is on the left hand side you have to go straight through passport control and baggage check, but don't fear - there are further food halls on the other side.
Smaller than Heathrow: Bratislava airport.
To get from the airport into town grab the 61 bus, which leaves from outside the terminal every half an hour, at 25 past and five minutes to the hour. This continues until midnight after which an hourly service kicks in at 00.57, but to be frank at that time a cab is the easier option.
The journey to the main train station takes around half an hour and passes the national stadium along the way.
If you pick up a Bratislava City Card from the tourist office at the airport that will get you a free bus ride in.
Bratislava train station
Across the world there are some stunning train stations, a tourist attraction in themselves. Think St Pancras in London, maybe Amsterdam.
Bratislava's is not one of them. It's a functional joyless block, and you're unlikely to want to spend too long there, and it's annoyingly just too far from the centre to want to walk it. You are still a mile or so from the old town, and quite probably your hotel too.
Buses terminate immediately outside the station - note you are set down one side of the terminus, and queue on the other side to get on.
Don't try to get on where people are getting off as usually the drivers have a ten minute breather and don't appreciate their fag break being interrupted.
To head into town by tram go downstairs to the right of the station for the terminus (see the picture below). A selection of lines terminate here, Tram 13 takes you towards the central areas and is the best option for a number of hotels.
Note that some trolleybuses pick up from the middle, rather than the one by the wall, so check out the computerised timetable at the end to see where you need to be.
Buying tickets
The central old town of Bratislava is in walking distance but to go any further you'll have to tackle the public transport system.
The network of trams, buses and trolleybuses is confusing at first but you soon find your feet. You can buy tickets for short journeys, covering ten minutes (14sk/40p), 30 minutes (18sk/50p) or one hour (22sk/60p). Note if you are heading to the airport that you should also purchase a ticket which also covers you for large baggage - the 30 minutes and one hour ones do.
However, if you're in town for any longer it's probably worth your while going for a longer time period as prices are really cheap. Buy a 24 hour (90sk/£2.40), 48 hour (170sk/£4.50), three day (210sk/£5.50) or seven day (310/£8) tourist ticket which covers you for all zones.
All aboard: The tram stop at the main train station.
You will find ticket machines across town, including in front of the main station, Hlavná stanica (open 5.30am to 9pm weekdays, and 8am to 4pm Saturdays), the bus terminal by Novy Most bridge and in front of the Crowne Plaza hotel (both open Monday to Friday, 9am to 7pm.
Alternatively you can buy a Bratislava City Card which gives you free use of all public transport plus a free sightseeing walk and a host of other discounts. On sale at the tourist centres in the airport, at the main train station and the main one in the Old Town at Klobucnicka 2, it costs 350sk/£9 for one day, 450sk/£12 for two days and 500sk/ £13.20 for three days.
Places to stay
Check out this map below of hotels in the centre of Bratislava. The old town is highlighted in blue. All of the hotels featured in this image are in comfortable walking distance of the middle of town.
View Larger Map
There are two clear categories of accommodation in Bratislava - the old and the new.
The venues of the communist era remain and the standards can be pretty average, but these are at the cheaper end of the market so may well appeal.
They are definitely one for a weekend, not the honeymoon, but if you're not too fussed they can really add to the experience of a trip to Slovakia.
The Hotel Kyjev (also known as Kiev) pictured right would certainly fit into this category. This 14 storey monolith - complete with a huge advert down one side - is easily spotted throughout the city centre so you should be able to find your way home.
The rooms, at least the one I was in, have seen better days, the bathroom ceiling leaked and the decor is a visual amazement. The TV was a portable on the floor and you can forget any english channels.
Having said that, the location's spot on, it's next to Tesco (is that good or bad?), there is free internet access, I found the staff friendly and spoke good english, and it serves up one of the best breakfasts i've had on the continent so don't rule it out.
In the past decade a number of high standard international chains have moved into town including the likes of Crowne Plaza, and the Radisson Carlton occupies a stunning building along the Hviezdoslavovo Námestie boulevard.
Go surfing for a bargain amongst these places, as standard prices for these places - catering for American visitors and business accounts - are pretty steep.
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